Savoring the Season
As time flies, another year is drawing to a close.
This is a time to pause amidst the hustle and bustle of daily life, reflect on the past year, set goals for the next, clean the house, and prepare for the New Year, all while taking a good look at yourself and your surroundings. Especially during the New Year holidays, the dining table becomes a precious space where families, friends, and partners can share the year's events and be truly open with each other.
In this season, hot pot (nabe) dishes are particularly popular. Gathering around a table, the anticipation as the lid of the pot is opened, reaching for your favorite ingredients at your own pace, and sharing and enjoying seasonal foods – it feels like it brings everyone a little closer. Since hot pots are so often at the center of gatherings, it's worth using something special.
To Iga in Search of Earthenware Pots
When you talk about earthenware pots, you think of Iga ware, and when you talk about Iga ware, you think of earthenware pots. But what exactly makes it different from other ceramics? I decided to investigate further.
Iga ware, a nationally designated traditional craft, is said to have originated in the Nara period, and its history reveals skillful techniques and its existence as "beauty of utility."
The area around Iga was rich in pottery clay and firewood, and in the Middle Ages, mortars, pots, and jars were authentically fired. It became famous as tea ware during the Azuchi-Momoyama period, but then temporarily declined. In the 18th century, potters were invited from Kyoto and Seto, and everyday vessels began to be made.
Iga Ware
The Iga region, once said to be the bottom of Lake Biwa, is known for its heat-resistant clay. When pottery made from this clay is fired at high temperatures, the organic matter contained within the clay burns out, creating countless pores. These pores give it excellent heat resistance, allowing it to retain heat once fired and distribute it evenly, making it ideal for earthenware pots and ceramics. It is also highly durable, sturdy, and long-lasting.
The porous clay of Iga, with its many air pockets, is often described as "breathing earth." It has a high far-infrared effect, which allows it to slowly and thoroughly heat ingredients to their core. It is precisely because of this unique local clay that Iga ware earthenware pots have achieved their current status.
Iga ware earthenware pots have been preserved by artisans who have passed down a long history and techniques. The simple, warm design conveys the raw power of the earth's texture, and the more it's used, the more character it develops. A highly practical and heat-resistant earthenware pot would be a valuable asset in any home. Since Iga ware, which excels at bringing out the flavors of ingredients, is often used for everyday purposes, you may have already used it at some point without realizing it.
Kanedai Pottery: Inheriting a Father's Legacy
While searching for an earthenware pot, I decided to visit "Kanedai Pottery" in Marubashira, Iga City, Mie Prefecture, a region known for Iga ware and its special clay. This pottery kiln was founded in 1872 and has been in business for 150 years. The current head is Ms. Asuka Ohya.
Previously, her father (fourth generation owner) Masato, her mother Hiroko, and Asuka herself divided the work. Asuka grew up watching her father's work from a young age. When Masato suddenly passed away in June 2021, Asuka, who had mainly been in charge of finishing, decided to learn molding. She attended Shigaraki Ceramic Research Institute for a year to study the potter's wheel, and now, as the head of the family, she continues the family business with her mother, working hard on pottery making.
Reflecting on that time, Asuka says, "I grew up watching my father, so that's all there is to it." She felt it would be a shame to let the tradition die out herself, despite being blessed with a happy environment where the necessary tools were readily available and she had witnessed the production process. Her mother Hiroko's words, "Let's give it a try," awakened her, and new feelings emerged that she hadn't experienced before.
Kanedai Pottery × Amenoi
This time, we commissioned Kanedai Pottery to produce two types of pots: a "7-sun pot" and a "Yukihira pot." The 7-sun earthenware pot features "Tenmoku glaze," a glossy black color rich in iron, which is common in Iga ware. Since Iga originally has high-quality pot clay, it is 100% Iga clay and contains no petalite. Without petalite, Tenmoku glaze cannot be used, and the current color and texture would not be achievable.
While adding petalite has the advantage of making it less likely to crack when heated, the heat penetrates quickly, making it difficult to fully bring out the best in the ingredients. In contrast, Iga earthenware pots heat slowly, allowing you to enjoy delicious hot pot dishes that bring out the natural flavors of the ingredients.
Seasoning (Medome)
To ensure long and careful use, it's important to be mindful of the clay's properties when using the pot. Before starting to use it, the "medome" process is essential. Cook leftover rice with a little water until it becomes pasty (over low to medium heat). Once the surface bubbles and thickens, turn off the heat and leave it overnight. The next day, discard the contents, wash, and dry thoroughly. This completes the process. By performing medome, even if cracks appear in the bottom of the earthenware pot, it prevents water leakage, allowing you to use it with peace of mind.
Japanese Hot Pot Dishes
Once the seasoning (medome) was complete, I immediately started cooking, deciding to make a Yose Nabe (mixed hot pot) first. I carefully checked that the bottom was not wet, then lit the flame. I started with a low flame to warm it slowly, and since the warmth lasts, I kept it on medium heat rather than high, then turned it off.
With seasonal napa cabbage, carrots, pork, pea sprouts, tofu, shimeji mushrooms, and shiitake mushrooms, it's packed with vegetables and nutrients. It's a standard dish, but undeniably delicious, requires minimal effort, and adding ginger warms both body and soul. The drinks flow naturally.
Oden with Dashi Broth
And don't forget oden in winter. Make the seasonal daikon a little bigger. Discussing our favorite ingredients and the natural increase in communication when serving are some of the joys of hot pot. Also, Kanedai Pottery's earthenware pots retain warmth, so reheating isn't often necessary, which is a great help. The wide variety of hot pot recipes is another plus. From classics like sukiyaki, shabu-shabu, motsunabe, and sundubu to unique variations like ethnic-style hot pots with plenty of seafood, I want to make them according to the season and my mood.
At the End of This Year
It's suddenly December, and the cold has set in. Supported by the seasonal ingredients, seeking soft sunlight and warm comfort, and surrendering to the changing scenery, I believe I truly enjoyed winter.
Hot pot is like an essence of all the good things about winter. It's gentle, flavorful, and naturally soothes the soul. How about gathering around a hot pot with your loved ones at the end of this year?
Kanedai Pottery's "Yukihira pot" is currently being produced and is expected to arrive next year, which I'm very much looking forward to. I'll be sure to introduce it through a column once it arrives.
What kind of artisans will I meet next year? I hope it will be a year filled with moments that move my heart as I encounter artisans who carefully approach craftsmanship with traditional techniques, while also adapting to changes and demands in the world, and their works.
I wish you all a happy New Year.
